A New Cross is a Colombian brand driven by the idea of creating garments and accessories with a high conceptual content. Their focus relies on thoughtful processes, a consciousness of art-inspired fashion, the use of quality materials, as well as artisanal methods of production.
I had the chance to have a chat with A New Cross chief designer Nicolás Rivero and ask him about his background, inspiration and aesthetic ideal:
Hi guys, can you tell us a bit about you and how the A NEW CROSS label came about?
We started the brand in December 2010, when I visited my friend and actual partner of the brand in NYC, I use to have a smaller brand in Bogota and I wanted to take my designs to a different target so we started up making a market study, changing the whole concept of what I was doing at that time, and developing the concept of what is today A New Cross. But that development took us almost a year and a half to take us to what we really wanted, there was a lot of research and a lot of communication among us, knowing that the project was being created between Washington (where David lives) and Bogota (where I live and produce most of my creations)
I began working inside an art gallery and developing the project from that place, so it was constantly inspired by art and had a lot of people to ask for opinion or advice when it came to the main concepts that carry each of my collections, I think that this place really took me to the “arts inspired fashion” that characterize my brand and my work as well, and it help me to find a lot of contributors to develop different projects such as installations in different cities, fashion films, photography…
And after a few years of constant work here we are now, with more dreams than the ones that we had when we began this project, and ready to continue to achieve them!
Can you describe your latest collection? Did you look at anything specifically for it?
The collection´s name is “ex umbra in solem” (from the darkness to the light) and has very conceptual pieces that follow the concept; raw and perforated calf leather jackets, transparent linens, zippers that reveal the garment construction, and a new line of jewelry that drowns the client in to the mood of the current collection.
Are you working and experimenting with any new materials this season?
Yes, in this collection we use materials from different countries seeking a variety of textures, we use merino wools and mohair from Spain , cashmere from Mexico, Peruvian alpacas and a wide diversity of leathers in different finishing’s. Most of the knitted garments in this collection are fully hand knitted by expert artisans in Colombia, and some of the leathers are distressed and treated, this makes most of the garments one of a kind.
Who wears A New Cross? Are there specific people you have in mind when you’re designing?
I design for people who have a certain interest for a darker aesthetic, and for conceptual and art inspired fashion, I consider that a very important part of my work is to get the attention of this target not only by creating garments, but also by presenting them in different contexts such as films, installations, and expositions. This way there is a closer approach to the concept of each collection by the consumer.
Is there any celebrity that you would really love to dress?
Not really ta a celebrity but people that I admire yes, for instate I would like to tailor a suit to Paul Virillio, or a deconstructed leather jacket to the German artist Thomas Grunfeld. Both of them have been great influences in my recent works and I research about their work constantly.
How do you define style and how does that manifest itself in your designs? And how would you describe your personal style?
Style can define the personality of any given person, and it don’t really depends on what he/she is wearing, it depends on how he is wearing certain garment, the exact same look can have radical different connotations on two different persons. You don´t necessarily need to have a lot of money to have an incredible style, it depends on how you choose to combine your wardrobe, some of my best dressed friends don’t have really expensive garments.
And for me I´m very drawn into non colors, and heavy silhouettes, I usually design objects that I would definitely wear, but that doesn´t mean that I go “A New Cross total look” all days… but really make me proud when people ask me where did I get my jacket or my shoes.
Which is your favorite piece in your collection (or in your closet)?
In this collection I would have to say that the raw cashmere wrap with leather sleeves, and in my closet, the high sneakers with 3 belts by Ann Demeuelemeester.
If style could be a place where would it be…?
Tadao Ando´s church of light in Osaka Japan.
Who’s your style icon?
Karlo Steel, he is the owner and buyer of Atelier NYC; for me the world best curated men´s boutique in the world.
It really impresses me every time I see a picture of him and I think that he´s good taste is reflected in every garment that Atelier sells.
Your favorite fashion designer?
definitely Caroll Christial Poell, he have been a great inspiration to me from the simplicity of the silhouettes that he uses to the complexness of his tailoring and craftsmanship techniques that he develop, I was blown away with his SS 04 “mainstream / downstream” presentation, that was my first approach to his work and since that time I’ve been following his career.
Where do you find yourself going when you need a creative boost?
It catches me, I`m always 2 collections ahead of the current one and while I´m designing one I`m working and researching for the concept of the next collection, but mostly from books I read, or characters in the movies I watch, I kind to trend to imagine myself as one of the characters and then I think how I would dress if I was one of them.
If your collection was a song, which one would it be?
I think I´ll have to go for Deadalus rising by DEATH IN JUNE.
What is IN and what is OUT?
INN: pork buns and ramen at Ipudo NYC
OUT: Vladimir Putin.
Your Last trip?
We went to Las Vegas participating in WORKROOM inside PROJECT, and then we shoot the fall winter 12 fashion film in L.A. It was a lot of rush and a little rest but it was worth it! I really enjoy the variety of food in LA ant it always surprises me to find new places that blow my head away.
Thank you Nicolas!