Category Archives: interview

Q+A with Gina Melosi

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“We are all shattered fragments trying to become whole again.”

 

The boldest the better. With multi-award winning designer Gina Melosi, body jewelry makes a conceptual statement which is not for the faint-hearted. Her fashion-forward jewelry creations from recycled metals and fair-trade gemstones are beautiful and quirky, delicate and slightly dangerous, and play with contrasts of form, texture, colour, and meaning. Gina knows how to push boundaries and get that rough and refined, dark and yet bright feel that we are all so crazy about

 

Hi Gina!

 

Your fashion film //mineD// is very sensual and almost hypnotic. Talk us through your thinking behind this.

Thanks. I had the pleasure again of collaborating with the director of this film, Joseph Eardly. He knows me very well and understands my work. I trust his choices, and we have a long history of shooting each other.

Before I ever launched my jewellery line, I was an image maker. It makes sense to present my creations in this format. I used to collage the world around me into 2-D, now I concentrate on 3… Maybe there are more dimensions to come!

We wanted to bring out the ‘elemental’ in this film. Rhythmic undulations of water, earth, fire, air… It ties in conceptually with what is described in the jewellery.

 

 
You use strong shapes in your jewellery moulded in metal. What materials do you use and have you experimented with things in your collection? What’s been the most difficult part of putting it together?

The shapes come from different influences, but have an organic aesthetic.

I’ve worked with many metals, including precious. But the collections are generally cast in recycled Sterling silver, recycled Bronze, and Copper. I’ve used some varying stones, both rough and faceted. I try to source these from fair-trade suppliers. Some of them are local minerals I bought in Butte, Montana, a mining town which inspired the current collection and next season’s.

The difficult part is that each item is handmade. Most of the collection can be duplicated. But really no piece is 100% identical. This is the beauty I believe, but something can always go wrong when crafting by hand! It always takes longer than you anticipate and can generally cost for. Likewise, I would say the marketing is difficult and paramount. There is so much involved in getting a piece/collection to market.

 
You yourself feature in many of your photographs and videos. When designing your pieces, do you think of yourself wearing it or others?

For the current collection, I did use myself as the journey was very personal. Next season shows a new interpretation on this narrative project. I do test-drive everything, so I can see it in situ, but I also try to envisage my jewellery on the end user who will wear/buy my pieces. It can be hard sometimes to completely dis-attach myself from the objects. There is a weird dichotomy of wanting to sell everything so you can succeed, but also wanting to keep it all because of the time and closeness spent with each one.

But really the greatest pleasure is seeing my jewellery on someone who is very happy with the end result. It is a joy of creating with one’s hands.

 

I recently got a tattoo of a snake between my breasts on my chest. I’m quite excited showing it off. What is the statement a person is making when she’s showing off your pieces? And how do you want your pieces to feel when they’re worn?

Sounds sexy! I’m outwardly tattoo-less, but the inked skin definitely inspired my first collection //SHATTERED fragments//. The statement a person is making, I hope, is uniquely individual to each wearer. I want the wearer to feel that the jewellery was manifested by my own labor of love. I hope they are concerned with the origin of the materials and the process behind the piece(s). I want them to feel empowered to make an individual statement which best suits their nature! I love experimenting, so if my customer wants to wear a piece in an alternative way or mix-and-match with different collections/vintage pieces/other designers, this makes things more fun.

 

 

 Do you have any plans on future collections? And what are you now focusing on to help your brand grow?

 Yes, I’ve been researching the next instalment and concept for a little while now. It’s exciting! TBC… :)

I’m focusing on finding new stockists/retailers that share my values and ethics. I want to showcase in the right settings for my brand moving forward. I’ve just taken a PR firm on board, so we are also focusing on increasing visibility and brand recognition in the press. I did most of it myself up until a couple months ago. My first project with Black PR was a launch at alternative luxury concept store Celestine Eleven.

 

Are you into fashion? Who is your favourite designer?

I don’t buy so many clothes, but someone manage to have a TON… I tend to keep things forever and ever, until they fall apart, and beyond. I have loads of hand-me-downs which I super cherish. I am even still wearing a skirt from 1st grade that consisted of part of my Halloween “Gypsy” costume. When I buy stuff, apart from vintage, I get some basics that I can wear with any/everything or some special classics like a Dries Van Noten floor length winter coat, which will never go out of fashion in my opinion. I guess because I create accessories, I have an endless supply of ‘samples’ with which to experiment and change my styles regularly. It also makes for *cheap* advertising :-)

 There are so many amazingly talented designers out there, and if I had a surplus of clothes-spending bucks, I’d support all my friends who make kick-ass stuff. There’s a ruffled, green couture dress from Francesca Valorsa I’ve been eyeing ever since we showcased together for FASHIONCLASH. Rei Kawakubo is one all-time fave, but most people probably say that. Finding good shoes is difficult.

 

 If you could have had one other fashion designer join you, who would it be and why?

I think this would be on a by-project collaborative basis depending upon the collection concept. Hussein Chalayan for one of my next collections. I want to collaborate with many types of artists/designers/musicians/image makers…and beyond!

 

What do you think style is about? How would you describe your personal style?

Eclectic, random, sometimes geeky, sometimes slutty. Often impractical for purpose. Sophisticated squatter.

 

If style was a place it would be…

Nature is the ultimate place style icon. But a (little) pad on Mustique would be just fine, thanks. :)

 

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And finally, you are from Texas, living in the UK. What do you love about London? What is an absolute must do there?

Anything and everything goes. You have to dig your heels in to scratch the surface. You can meet someone new every single day. All the options are there, you just have to do a little searching/discovering. You become really good at google-ing.

 

Thank you Gina.

 

www.ginamelosi.com/

Below some pics from her Instagram. Follow her @ginamelosi

 

ginamelosi

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Featured | Vogue Italia August ’14

 

I am very excited to announce that I was featured on Vogue Italia, August printed issue. Whoop!

 

Together with Ced Pakusevskij, creative director of Fullscream, the design studio where I art direct the fashion projects, we have been mentioned in the piece written by Fiamma Sanò, and got featured with the header image “Intrinsic”.

 

The article talks about fashion films seen as the future of fashion communication and anticipates the first Milan’s Fashion Film Festival that will take place in the city in September.


 
VOGUE_elisabettagiovi_fashionfilm

 

 

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Foot Fetishism | the Alternative Anthropological Bible

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Nowness anticipates the new Sang Bleu, issue 7, I can’t wait to have on my shelve.
 
Head over to Nowness site now and read the awesome interview with Maxime Büchi, tattoist (I am proud to have two of his pieces on my ribs and chest) creative director of the tattoo-themed editorial project “Sang Bleu” and art director for Mugler, Alexander McQueen and Rick Owens, about fetishism and erotic publishing.

 


 
“Gait”
Sharna Osbourne made the film which was directed by Reba Maybury with creative direction from Maxime Buchi and Eloise Parry feet portraits.

Styling Rema Maybury for Sang Bleu.

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OFF THE WALL: ROCKAWAY!

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In love with this “The Resilience of the Dreamer” by Patti Smith for MoMA PS1 at Fort Tilden Rockaway Beach, New York.

 
She offered up several stunning works, including a large-scale installation, photography exhibition, and this site-specific outdoor installation ‘The Resilience of the Dreamer’. Having witnessed personal belongings of Rockaway residents being destroyed and washed away during Sandy, Smith installed a gilded four-post bed with pure white linens in a long-abandoned building that lacks windows and parts of its roof. The bed will wear down physically, yet remain in place, a symbol of courage and resilience.

 

I wish I was in NY now to go and see it in person…

Check who else is contributing to the exhibition here

 

 
Photography and video by Jennifer Orlowski 

Original music by Salisbury Cathedral Choir from The Forty Piece Motet by Janet Cardiff

via

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The Wild Magazine | Interview

 

 

I am very excited to announce that I have just been featured on NY based fashion mag The Wild Magazine with a very wild interview! 
 
CHECK IT OUT HERE.

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Q+A with A New Cross

 

A New Cross is a Colombian brand driven by the idea of creating garments and accessories with a high conceptual content. Their focus relies on thoughtful processes, a consciousness of art-inspired fashion, the use of quality materials, as well as artisanal methods of production.

I had the chance to have a chat with A New Cross chief designer Nicolás Rivero and ask him about his background, inspiration and aesthetic ideal:
 
Hi guys, can you tell us a bit about you and how the A NEW CROSS label came about?

We started the brand in December 2010, when I visited my friend and actual partner of the brand in NYC, I use to have a smaller brand in Bogota and I wanted to take my designs to a different target so we started up making a market study, changing the whole concept of what I was doing at that time, and developing the concept of what is today A New Cross. But that development took us almost a year and a half to take us to what we really wanted, there was a lot of research and a lot of communication among us, knowing that the project was being created between Washington (where David lives) and Bogota (where I live and produce most of my creations)
I began working inside an art gallery and developing the project from that place, so it was constantly inspired by art and had a lot of people to ask for opinion or advice when it came to the main concepts that carry each of my collections, I think that this place really took me to the “arts inspired fashion” that characterize my brand and my work as well, and it help me to find a lot of contributors to develop different projects such as installations in different cities, fashion films, photography…
And after a few years of constant work here we are now, with more dreams than the ones that we had when we began this project, and ready to continue to achieve them!

 

Can you describe your latest collection? Did you look at anything specifically for it?

The collection´s name is “ex umbra in solem” (from the darkness to the light) and has very conceptual  pieces that follow the concept; raw and perforated calf leather jackets, transparent linens, zippers that reveal the garment construction, and a new line of jewelry that drowns the client in to the mood of the current collection.

 
Are you working and experimenting with any new materials this season?

Yes, in this collection we use materials from different countries seeking a variety of textures, we use merino wools and mohair from Spain , cashmere from Mexico, Peruvian alpacas and a wide diversity of leathers in different finishing’s. Most of the knitted garments in this collection are fully hand knitted by expert artisans in Colombia, and some of the leathers are distressed and treated, this makes most of the garments one of a kind.

 
Who wears A New Cross? Are there specific people you have in mind when you’re designing?

I design for people who have a certain interest for a darker aesthetic, and for conceptual and art inspired fashion, I consider that a very important part of my work is to get the attention of this target not only by creating garments, but also by presenting them in different contexts such as films, installations, and expositions. This way there is a closer approach to the concept of each collection by the consumer.

 

 
Is there any celebrity that you would really love to dress?

Not really ta a celebrity but people that I admire yes, for instate I would like to tailor a suit to Paul Virillio, or a deconstructed leather jacket to the German artist Thomas Grunfeld. Both of them have been great influences in my recent works and I research about their work constantly.
 
How do you define style and how does that manifest itself in your designs? And how would you describe your personal style?

Style can define the personality of any given person, and it don’t really depends on what he/she is wearing, it depends on how he is wearing certain garment, the exact same look can have radical different connotations on two different persons. You don´t necessarily need to have a lot of money to have an incredible style, it depends on how you choose to combine your wardrobe, some of my best dressed friends don’t have really expensive garments.
And for me I´m very drawn into non colors, and heavy silhouettes, I usually design objects that I would definitely wear, but that doesn´t mean that I go “A New Cross total look” all days… but really make me proud when people ask me where did I get my jacket or my shoes.

 
Which is your favorite piece in your collection (or in your closet)?

In this collection I would have to say that the raw cashmere wrap with leather sleeves, and in my closet, the high sneakers with 3 belts by Ann Demeuelemeester.

 
If style could be a place where would it be…?

Tadao Ando´s church of light in Osaka Japan.
 
Who’s your style icon?

Karlo Steel, he is the owner and buyer of Atelier NYC; for me the world best curated men´s boutique in the world.
It really impresses me every time I see a picture of him and I think that he´s good taste is reflected in every garment that Atelier sells.
 
Your favorite fashion designer?

definitely Caroll Christial Poell, he have been a great inspiration to me from the simplicity of the silhouettes that he uses to the complexness of his tailoring and craftsmanship techniques that he develop, I was blown away with his SS 04 “mainstream / downstream” presentation, that was my first approach to his work and since that time I’ve been following his career.
 
Where do you find yourself going when you need a creative boost?

It catches me, I`m always 2 collections ahead of the current one and while I´m designing one I`m working and researching for the concept of the next collection, but mostly from books I read, or characters in the movies I watch, I kind to trend to imagine myself as one of the characters and then I think how I would dress if I was one of them.
 


 
If your collection was a song, which one would it be?

I think I´ll have to go for Deadalus rising by DEATH IN JUNE.
 
What is IN and what is OUT?
INN: pork buns and ramen at Ipudo NYC
OUT: Vladimir Putin.
 
Your Last trip?

We went to Las Vegas participating in WORKROOM inside PROJECT, and then we shoot the fall winter 12 fashion film in L.A. It was a lot of rush and a little rest but it was worth it! I really enjoy the variety of food in LA ant it always surprises me to find new places that blow my head away.
 
Thank you Nicolas!

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